Installing the
in our ship
January 18, 2005
John Spurling called us with some great news today. Not only was our new secondary unit ready but Terry Everhart was going to personally deliver it to us on his way back home to Florida.
Terry arrived in Knoxville Friday with a large heavy box in hand and we got our first look at our new secondary unit. After playing catch up with each other for a couple of hours Terry departed our frozen city for the sunny Florida coast.
Thanx Terry!
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I asked John Spurling about this allan screw
and he said it was for installing a grease fitting later on when we hit the 500 hour mark on our secondary unit and that we could if we wanted to also use it to attatch our bearing temperature sensor. John said that having a bearing temp gauge hooked up to this spherical bearing setup is just about useless because it won't give us any advanced warning of a problem like the previous 3 and 2 bearing units of the past were supposed to.
January 24, 2005
Today was the day and a long one to let me tell you lol.
Installing this drive was something we took pretty serious. We spent alot more time pondering than we did actually working on it, well pondering and calling John Spurling about 2000 times lol.
The drive itself is pretty simple to install once you figure out the magic trick of getting it into the frame. We made about 4 long attempts at it and it just didn't want to go. All of a sudden on attempt #5 it just fell into place like it was made for it. It brought back memories of that imfamous Rubik's Cube puzzle thingie lol.
Anyways once that part was over it was onto setting it all into place which was pretty easy to do since it wasn't a totally new installation.
With the unit
in position with the top pillar block bolts slid in temporarilly
to hold it up
and with the aluminum shim stock in place
we put the lower bearing mount bracket on with the original shims.
Next with the cog belt in place around the shaft we slid the small sprocket onto the shaft then
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using the tensioner / spreader unit that came with our original cog belt system we set just a touch more pressure on the cog belt then we figured we would need so we could get the shims inbetween the the square drive tube and the piller block of the secondary.
After that we figured out the amount of shims we would need at the top of the unit and slid them into place.
This new
40mm secondary setup got rid of 1/8 inch shim on our ship
because it
fits closer to the square drive tube which on a good note translates
into loosing some weight. The reason for that is the center of
the shaft hasn't moved but since the diameter of the shaft has been
increased to 40mm, Pro-Drive had to down size the pillar block in the
forward area in order to make it fit.

After
we made sure every thing was aligned
to the main
shaft cog belt sprocket we tightened the piller block down.
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Next we checked the tension of our cog belt
which
is
now 5/16" belt tension
at the 74 degree ambient temperature of our workshop.
Cog Belt Tensions
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Belt Deflection |
Tension |
Ambient Temperature |
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Minimum Tension 7/16" of an inch |
10 lbs. |
70 Degrees |
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Maximum Tension 1/4" of an inch |
10 lbs. |
70 Degrees |
Next we finished torquing down the small cog belt sprocket.
This takes what seeems to be forever to do. It's done in a pattern going around and around it until each bolt torques to 10lbs.
John Spurling at Pro-Drive also said once the ship is hovered for an hour or so to be sure to go over it again.
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Re-Torqued 3/12/05
None of the screws tightened up more then a smidge if anything at all.
January 25, 2005
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We
asked John whether to use Red or green
loctite and
his reply was
you could use either one but green was the preferred one so we
goobered it with the green stuff.
The brand
and type of loctite we used our shaft parts
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Permatex |
John
Says,
It's
very importent
Not
TO USE
Blue
Loctite
because it doen't have much holding strength. In this application the temps of the secondary shaft will get very warm especially in hot weather and blue will completely loose all of the little holding strength it had.
All finished and ready to go onto the next steps,
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Installing the fan, radiator and shroud assembly
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Next was shifting the secondary over to center the fan in the cooling shroud
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and checking the tension on our Pro-Drive electric clutch spring tube.
With
the clutch engaged
we
set our belt tension to
5/16
of an inch at
10 lbs. pressure
The ranges of tensions
with the Pro-Drive Main Belts engaged are
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Minimum Tension |
7/16" |
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Medium Tension |
3/8" |
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Maximum Tension |
5/16" |
3/8 " being the middle of the road would be the ideal tention
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Next was
checking the stroke of the Pro-Drive Electric
Clutch Spring Tube.
With
the clutch engaged it
has
1 - 3/16 inch of tension
which is between the minimum and medium setting so we're good to go
Pro-Drive Electric Clutch Spring tube ranges of Tensions
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Mininum Tensoin |
1 - 1/8" |
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Medium Tension |
1 - 1/4" |
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Maximum Tension |
1 - 3/8" |
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ALLOWED
ONLY |
1 - 1/2" |
1 - 1/4" being the middle of the road would be the ideal tension
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Swing Arm /
Idler pully
If the swing arm was installed any lower we would have had to raise it up, if you look closely at the pictures you can see it just barely has clearence so we lucked out and we're good to go.
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Next was
adjusting the engine height
We need to
move our engine up
about 1/8
of an inch or 1.25 thousands in tech head talk.
That will require jacking up the engine and removing a shim from the bottom engine mount. We're not sure if our hard landing caused this or if the new secondary is taller or our engine has just sank into the rubber O Ring a little further over time. I spoke with John Spurling about this and he said it was common for the engines to settle about an 1/8 of an inch by the time they reach 80 to 100 hours so from what I understand the hard landing we had didn't have a thing to do with it being lower.
In this
picture you can see how close the oil return fitting
on the bottom
ot the cyclinder head is to the frame.
When were finished it will be 1/8 (125 thousands) of an inch higher.
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The final
out come of our engine height alignment
set to
.200
thousands below
the top of the Engine Pully
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Installing the alternator / water pump belt
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Rotorway Part Number |
Manufacturer Part Number |
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Alternator / Water pump belt |
E29-1131 |
NAPA Premium XL 25-10403/7410 |
Gotta luv that Orange huh lol.
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Installing our Fan Drive Shaft
We got
our Fan Drive Shaft painted up and remounted on the ship today but we
couldn't finish installing it because
RotorWay sent
us the wrong lower fan drive belt.
The good news
is they may have made a change to the lower bracket on newer ships
which is something that needed doing.
Anyhow the
belt they sent us won't tighten up
which means
it's too big for our ship so if they did make a change it won't apply
to our ship.
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Rotorway Part Number |
Manufacturer Part Number |
Belt Length |
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What we had originally is a |
??? |
NAPA
Premium XL 25-08383/7330 |
33 5/8 inches |
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A spare replacement belt we got from them a few years ago is a |
E31-1130 |
Bando Power Ace Cog 3BX-335 |
33 5/8 inches |
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The one they sent us is a |
E31-1142 |
NAPA Premium XL 25-7335 |
? inches |
January 27, 2005
I talked
with Mark at RotorWay today
and he said they have in fact made a mod on the lower fan drive bracket in an effort to get a better alignment for the shafts and somehow we got an updated belt by mistake.
We are going to return the one we got from RotorWay and obtain one locally here in town so we can move on with the ships repairs.
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The
belt we bought locally |
N/A |
NAPA Premium XL 25-7328 |
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Here's what
we ended up with.
It's
still out of alignment like our original one was
but it's as
good as it gets, so like before we'll just have to live with it.
I think I'm
going to try and make some kind of an add on extension plate
that will fix
this problem, it's going to add some weight but the more I look at it
the more its bugs me lol.
February 3rd 2005
Fan Drive Shaft Mod
Well I couldn't handle it anymore lol,
so I made an adapter bracket out of Chrome Molly steel to strighten out our fan drive alignment. It took me the better part of a day to complete it but I think it was worth it.
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We had to
cut away some of the orignal lower mount to get the shaft into center.
It could have
been shifted a bit more aft but the way the bracket it's self made it
wasn't possible.
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First we bead blasted the bracket, then we put a coat of self etching primer on it.
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Last we
finished it off with a top coat of good ole Tennessee Orenge,
Its's really
Chevrolet Orenge but we aren't going to tell anyone lol.
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It's still got a slight tip but nothing as bad as what we had when we started so we're pretty happy with it.
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The one they sent us is a |
E31-1142 |
NAPA Premium XL 25-7335 |
? inches |
In the end after when we finished mod we used the belt RotorWay sent us after all.
January 31st 2005
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Next we reinstalled our lower Engine heat shields.
and for some reason our heat shields were to close to the RH side exhaust pipes
so we had to ajust our engine torque link to rotate our engine forward on the passengers side of the ship.
January 31st 2005
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We did our final test on our Fleetguard engine coolant.
After
we ran the ships engine and let it come up to tempreture and cycle
the theromostate a few time we shut it down and took a sample of the
coolent from the water pump air bleed port.
At this
point we put the test strip into the test sample bottle for one
second and then took it out and shook it off,
then we waited
the required 45 seconds and within the following 30 seconds we
compaired our test strip colors to the chart below
Combining
steps B and C gave us
a
reading of 2.8
on the chart
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Reading |
Levels |
Outcome |
Outcome |
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A |
Freeze Point = |
60% Glycol |
-60 degree Fahrenhight |
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B |
Molybdate = |
600 Parts Per Million |
Sends us to Row 4 |
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C |
Nitrite = |
1600 Parts Per Million |
Sends us to Row F |
We
started out with a 2.2
reading and now have 2.8
after adding 1/2 bottle of DCA4
2.8 = The amount of SCA Units per gallon in our cooling system
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Cooling system level check on 3/12/05
It checked out right on the full mark
January 31st 2005
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Next was redoing all the safty wiring of all the bolts we had to take apart for this installtion.
We still haven't safty wired our water air bleed valves
because we want to wait until we have ran the engine a few more times to make sure all the air is out of the cooling system.
March 12th 05
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Engine |
Water pump |
Water pump |
Radiator |
Done 3/12/05
We completed the last of the safty wiring
UPDATE LOG BOOK
Done
Theoretically
that does
it for our Pro-Drive
secondary installation
and we can resume our attack on our 100 hour service procedure.
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These are
shots of our new 40mm
Secondary
Unit
when it was waiting patiently for us to install it.
END