100 Hour Service

This has come up just about the time were retrofitting our ship
with a new tail boom and secondary so were doing it about 3 hours early.

We ordered our parts from Robin at RotorWay Monday and we received them Friday.

Looking into this box it sure doesn't look like $536.00 bucks does it lol.

Thanx for the favor Robin!

100 Hour Service Costs

-	E-34-1310	RH Large Radiator Hose	-	$     19.03
-	E-34-1320	LH Large Radiator Hose	-	$     15.40
-	E-34-1300	Water pump to engine manifold hose	-	$     22.98
-	E-34-1151	Clear Over Flow Hose	-	$       5.06
20 ft	E-34-1350	¾ ID Fire Resistant Heater Hose	$ 2.50	$     49.97
1	E34-5000	Thermostat	-	$     14.31
3	CC2835	ES Compleat PG Fleet Guard Antifreeze	$ 8.84	$     26.52
6	CC2602B	3 Way Fleet Guard Coolant Test Strips	$ 1.27	$       8.00
1	DCA60-L	DCA4 LIQ Additive	-	$     5.55
1	E-29-1131	Alternator Water Pump Belt	-	$     16.96
1	E-31-1130 Gates 3VX-335	Upper Fan Drive Belt	-	$     15.93
1	E-31-1141 Napa 25-08383	Lower Fan Drive Belt	-	$     15.86
2	E-18-1150	“118 inch” Forward and center tail rotor belt	$ 64.87	$   129.74
1	E-18-1160	“112 inch” Rear Tail Rotor belt	-	$     48.11
1	N/A	Compression Checker Tool	-	$     40.00
5 qts	Aeroshell W15W50	Motor Oil	$   3.69	$     18.45
1	E28-1110-P	Oil Filter	-	$       4.42
1	E25-4630-P	Secondary Fuel Filter	-	$     26.89
1	E25-4740	12mm fuel filter crush washer	-	$        1.31
1	E25-4750	14mm fuel filter crush washer	-	$       1.39
8	E24-9740	Spark Plugs	$   3.21	$     25.68
4	A24-4018-P	Valve Cover O-Rings	$    .22	$         .88
1	-	Ballast Weight safty Clip	-	$         .49
2	E00-2800-P	New main Rotor Blade Bolts 9/16 X 4 1/4 NAS1309-54	$ 23.96	$     47.92
4	E00-3800-P	New main Rotor Blade 9/16 - 18 fiberlock Nuts AN365-918A	$   2.54	$       2.54
4	E00-4800-P	New main Rotor Blade Washers	$    .31	$       1.25
-	-	Freight for bolts nuts and washers	-	$     10.95
1	-	White touch up paint for touching up misc items	-	$       4.00
2	cheverolet orange	Orange spray paint for painting misc. parts	$   4.00	$       8.00
-	-	Freight on 100 hour service parts from RotorWay	-	$     11.48
-	-	100 Hour Service Total	-	$    580.62

This is the total Dollars
it took to get us past our 100 hour service and back in the air.

Extra Parts we Purchased but didn't end up needing.

Either way we wanted to have them on hand
in the event that we needed them for this service or in the future

1	E49-6330	Rotor Head Shim Kit 3/4 pin size	-	$     59.57
2	E49-5131	Rotorhead Pin Snap Rings	$1.30	$       2.60
-	-	Sub Total	-	$    62.17

Out of pocket Project Grand Total

$  4,686.33

Last Update February 16th 2005

This is a few shots of the main oil line that runs from the bottom of the engine to the oil tank.

At first we thought they were to short but the new one worked just great.  Whats going on here is the old hoses are swelled up and the new ones aren't.  Even if these hoses look good they need to be changed out when they are supposed to because when they reach there limits they can and will rupture.

We haven't checked around to see but were thinking parts like these maybe rare or perhaps special application items which means they may not be big sellers out in the world.  We can probably beat RotorWays Prices on some of these hoses and belts but we have no way of knowing just how old and how these items were treated prior to us buying them from an outside source which is why we think staying with RotorWay is a better way to go.

We would feel better if RotorWay wouldn't sand some of the logos and part numbers off the belts because we feel it may damage the belts.

Done 1/23/05

I have been told this lower oil hose sometimes has issues.

What happens sometimes is it delaminates on the inside which either restricts or compleatly shuts off the oil flow on its way back to the oil cooler.

We first inspected the old hose for indications of that problem and then we cut it in half lenght wise and found no problems.

This one inside hose clamp on the top right of the engine really kicked my arse

until a light bulb came on in my head that said DUH dummy! all you have to do is rotate the flywheel until the hole is over the clamp.  After the enlighting moment it was easy to do lol.

Done 1/22/05

We had to put a slight twist on the hose or it would rub

on top of the tork link bolt, something that would rub a hole into the hose in no taim at all.

Done 1/22/05

In these pictures you can see where were getting a bit of blow by at the bottom of the right hand side of our engine between the cyclinder head and sleeve.

We've had this going on since about 50 hours or so.  It gets better after we tork the heads each 25 hours.

We didn't reinstall about 2/3 of the fire sleeve on the RH side of the ship
we originally had which should make the ship a couple of pounds lighter.

Tom Smith at RotorWay told us we didn't need all that way back when we were still building our ship but we choose to go the safe route and protect any hose that was within 3 to 5 inches of the exaust pipes.  In all of our travels looking at other peoples ships we were about the only ones who got that wild with the stuff so were going to try it like this and see how it goes.

It wasn't much fun and took us 3 full working days but we finally finished up the water and oil lines today.

Done 1/23/05

All we have left on the cooling system hoses are the two that connect the radiator to the rest of the system which we can't do until after we install our new Pro-Drive 40mm Secondary Unit which if work is slow tomorrow will be our next task.

January 27, 2005

Today we finally hit the end of our Pro-Drive Secondary installation, Yeahhhhh!

After getting our radiator reinstalled today we checked out all the clamps on the coolant and oil hoses we changed out.  We also rechecked to make sure that all the hoses had proper clearances from things like the airframe and moving engine parts.

Next we added the Fleetguard ES premix antifreeze solution.  Our ship took just a bit over 2.5 gallons to fill it up once it was all said and done with all the air was purged out of the system.

This is the 3 tests we did with the test strips.

The readings on the strips time out after 75 seconds
so the colors in the picture aren't the same as the ones we got in the time period window of 45 to 75 seconds.

Reading	Levels	Outcome	Outcome
A	Freeze Point =	60% Glycol	-60 degree Fahrenhight
B	Molybdate =	450 Parts Per Million	Sends us to Row 3
C	Nitrite =	1600 Parts Per Million	Sends us to Row F

Combining steps B and C gave us
a reading of 2.5 on the chart

2.5 = The amount of SCA Units per gallon in our cooling system

We added about 1/4 bottle ( 4 oz. ) of DCA4
and ran the engine up to operating water and oil temperatures to be sure it was mixed.

This is a chart that come with the coolant test strips

The Third test strip and our final reading for the day of the coolant.

Reading	Levels	Outcome	Outcome
A	Freeze Point =	60% Glycol	-60 degree Fahrenhight
B	Molybdate =	300 Parts Per Million	Sends us to Row 2
C	Nitrite =	1600 Parts Per Million	Sends us to Row F

Combining steps B and C gave us

a reading of 2.2 on the chart

2.2 = The amount of SCA Units per gallon in our cooling system

We started out with a 2.5 reading and now have 2.2
which is still in the green zone but
we still have no idea if that's a good thing or a bad one until we find someone that can explain the chart a little better to us.

We added about 1/2 bottle ( 8oz. ) of DCA4

We'll see what it does next time after we run the engine again.

Your! on your! own! lol.

January 31st 2005

We got to do another test on our Fleetguard engine coolant.

After we ran the ships engine and letting it come up to tempreture and cycle the theromostate a few time we shut it down and took a sample of the coolent from the water pump air bleed port.

At this point we put the test strip into the test sample bottle for one second and then took it out and shook it off,
then we waited the required 45 seconds and within the following 30 seconds we compaired our test strip colors to the chart below

Combining steps B and C gave us

a reading of 2.8 on the chart

Reading	Levels	Outcome	Outcome
A	Freeze Point =	60% Glycol	-60 degree Fahrenhight
B	Molybdate =	600 Parts Per Million	Sends us to Row 4
C	Nitrite =	1600 Parts Per Million	Sends us to Row F

 
We started out with a 2.2 reading and now have 2.8 after adding 1/2 bottle of DCA4

2.8 = The amount of SCA Units per gallon in our cooling system

Done 1/31/05

YEAh!!!!!!!!!

We got the lower front tub back on the ship today.

It sure makes it look and feel like were finally getting someplace
not to mention it gets a few body parts off the floor of the trailer.

Done 1/28/05

This  beginning part of this starts out with the 25 Hour Service

because it's part of the 100 hour service

Service Air Filter

clean as necessary & inspect for damage.

Done 1/28/05

refer to the specification section for procedure & for correct type & quantity of grease.

Measure & Adjust Valve Lash & Inspect Valve Train – also, if any initial measurement is in excess of .008”, inspect the lash cap for wear & repeat valve adjustment at one hour intervals until the lash stabilizes.  If repeated excess lash is encountered, all related valve train components should be inspected.

Inspect Cooling System – check entire system, including engine, for any sign of leakage.  Check the security of all hoses, and make sure all hose clamps are installed past the bead or flare on the end of the adjoining tube or fitting.  Re-tighten all hose clamps.  Check the hoses, making sure there is no interference with vibrating or rotating parts or any sign of heat damage.

Done 2/1/05

Inspect Oil System   

check entire system for any sign of leakage.  Check the security of all oil line connections.  Also, check the lines for proper clearance from heat sources and other parts.

Done 1/25/05

Inspect Fuel System

check the security of all fuel hoses & check for any signs of leakage on the entire system.

Inspect Exhaust System – check entire exhaust system for cracks & leaks.  Proper fit of each exhaust manifold to its mating port is important.  Proper fit can be verified while idling the engine and positioning your finger approximately ½” away from the exhaust ports.  Test all the way around the circumference of each port for any escaping gases.  If no turbulence is felt within the proximity, the system will be sufficiently leak free at full RPM.  Also check the security & condition of all exhaust related shielding.

Done 1/28/05

Opps!,

We almost forgot to install these new fuel line vent crossover hoses

Rotorway sent us a different type of hose then what we originally had.

It's alot heaver and writtin on it, it states that it's not for use on fuel injected systems.
We called and talked to Mark at RotorWay and he said this is what they are using now.

Done 2/2/05

Inspect Ignition System

check all wiring, including spark plug wires, for proper mounting & condition.  Replace any wire that shows any sign of damage.

Done 1/28/05

Re-torque Bolts on exhaust manifold flanges

Done 2/1/05

Re-torque Bolts on  intake manifolds

Done 2/1/05

Re-torque Bolts on waterjacket elbows.

Done 1/31/05

Inspect Throttle Control

check return spring & linkage for proper adjustment & freedom of movement.  Check cable ends & cable for wear.

This is something we try to keep an eye on since a ship at the RotorWay Factory crashed

because of a problem they had with it.  If that stop on the bottom gets bent down to far and the pilots throttle is rolled of the passengers throttle control will become locked into position and the passengers side can't apply throttle.  What I understand an instructor and a student were practicing autorotations and the student rolled the throttle off so far off it locked up the CFI's throttle control and they hit the ground like a box of rocks.  It may be that the student just applyed so much pressure the bracket it bent, it wouldn't take much to do it, or the throttle may have just been improperly setup in the first place.

Done 1/28/05

Throttle Range on FADEC ----------------------------------checked 3/12/05

Collective Full Down in bottom of pocket = 0 to 75%
Collective Full Up = 18.7% to 100%

Change Oil & Filter

change oil & filter every six months even if 25 hours of operation has not yet occurred.

Done 1/25/05

-----------------------------------------------------------------

Engine oil Level -----------------------------------------------check on 3/12/05

1/8 over full mark on dipstick

Oil tank level

Lateral..............pass side high 0.4
For and Aft...................front hight 6.6

100 Hour Service

Engine

Replace spark plugs
Clean area around plugs first
Gaped plugs to .044
Coat threads with antiseize
Torque plugs to 10 ft. lbs.

 
We think our plugs are covered in soot like this because we were shuting it down by closing off the main fuel cutoff so we do our fuel system maintenance.

We couldn't torque the spark plugs to the 10 foot pounds
because there isn't room to for our torque wrench to access them

Done 2/1/05

Cylinder head service

Retorque cylinder leads (loosen then tighten bolts)

Done 1/28/05

Measure & Adjust Valve Lash & Inspect Valve Train

Also, if any initial measurement is in excess of .008", inspect the lash cap for wear & repeat valve adjustment at one hour intervals until the lash stabilizes.  If repeated excess lash is encountered, all related valve train components should be inspected.

Check spring retainer, check gap on spring keeper & check valve guide for play.

Date 2/1/05

97.0 Hours

Tight = T Loose =L	Measure Exhaust Valve Was	Valve Guide Play	Measure Intake Valve Was	Lash Cap	Adjusted Exhaust Valve To	Lash Cap	Adjusted Intake Valve To
Cylinder 1	.005T	ok	.005	ok	.005T	ok	.005
Cylinder 2	.005T	ok	.007	ok	.005T	ok	.005T
Cylinder 3	.005	ok	.008	ok	.005	ok	.005
Cylinder 4	.005T	ok	.007	ok	.005T	ok	.005

Check the Valve Cover Bolt O-Ring seals

Reinstall Valve Covers tightening the bolts 1/2 turn past
the point of the flat washer coming into contact with the valve cover.

Done 2/1/05

Cylinder differential test

Eastern Technology Corp. Model #E2
Aircraft Spruce part#12-18201 14 mm adaptor also needed
Leak down test – engine cooled to internal temp 50-90 degrees F
Remove 1 spark plug from each cylinder
Locate top dead center for #1 cylinder
Confirm the intake and exhaust valves are closed on cylinder #1
Install adapter for tester into the #1 hole
CAUTION – engine may rotate blades
Connect an air source of at least 90 psi
The left hand gauge must read 0
Slowly adjust the regulator clockwise until lock position at top dead center
Once the piston is locked at top dead center adjust the regulator so that 80 psi is registered in the left hand gauge
The right gauge indicates the relative pressure of the air remaining in the cylinder being tested
Observe and record the reading on the RH gauge
Maximum differential pressure specs = 5-8% or 7 psi maximum
If air is leaking thru tail pipe = leaking exhaust valve
If air is leaking at plenum intake = leaking intake valve
If air is leaking at oil sum breather & valve cover area = leaking piston rings
Some leaking at piston rings is normal
Next test #4 – CCW 180 degrees
Be sure that both valves are closed at top dead center

We choose not to do this test in the Rotorway fashion.
All we did was do a cylinder compression check.

Cylinder 1	188
Cylinder 2	185
Cylinder 3	188
Cylinder 4	188

Done 2/1/05

Fuel Filter

Disconnect battery
Replace fuel filter
Cut used filter in half & inspect the inlet side for debris
If found to be contaminated inspect & clean the pre-filter in the fuel shut-off valve assembly as shown in 10 hour service
Be sure to replace both crush washers on assembly & note proper fuel direction
Remember to use a small amount of engine oil to lubricate threads on fittings
Be sure to do a fuel pressure check to check for leaks

Done 1/28/05

January 28th 05

Air Frame

Remove all inspection panels & inspect for cracks (welds, etc.)
Remove skid pants & inspect
Retorque rear landing gear bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (big bolts)
Retorque front landing gear bolts to 7 ft. lbs. or 70 in. lbs.
Retorque lower engine mount bolts to 12 ft. lbs.

We found a weld joint that looked questionable

This is at the very bottom of the LH fuel tank bracket, it may just be where they didnt get enough penitration at the end of the joint.  We don't think its a big deal but we will keep our eye on it from this point on and see if it grows.

Done 1/28/05

Tail Boom

Check for cracks & loose rivets

Done 2/10/05

Body Panels

Clean & inspect
Check clearance of all panels
Check WS for cracks and check screws are not too tights
Skid pants on reinstallation check for clearance

Done 2/20/05

Doors

Check-----------------------------------------------------------------------Not yet Done

Tail Rotor Drive

Make a mark on slider assemblies
Loosen the nuts enough to remove idler pulleys
Remove pulley & check the travel of idler pulley assemblies
Inspect for wear & anodizing on the pulley
Clean w/acetone
Check temp dots & replace if needed
Clean 3 belts w/damp (not dripping) acetone cloth
Inspect cable & wires inside tail boom to see if secure & not interfering w/any belts or pulleys
Reinstall idler pulleys & torque bolt to 16 ft. lbs.
Inspect tail rotor pulley for wear & security & clean with a damp acetone cloth
Inspect bearings in main tail rotor
Bolt just tight enough so that can rotate w/fingers
Inspect male rod ends for wear
Remove cotter pin in castle nut
Remove bolt in actuator arm
Slide actuator arm back & clean bolt hole & casting with a q-tip & acetone
Inspect rod ends & the bolt in the directional control cable
Check security of cable housing to cable mount tube weldment (jam nuts)
Reinstall actuator bolt w/small amount of grease first in hole & on bolt
Replace cotter pin with new one on reinstallation
Install spacer mod
Retension tail rotor belts back to marks
Check belt tension

Directional Controls

Done 2/10/05

We had to regrease tail rotor hub on 2/25/06 at 121.8 Engine Hours because it was making it' typical clunking noise on run down

Pedals

Check pedals for freedom of movement
Check rod end of tail rotor cable & all rod ends on foot pedals
Check for play of bolts & security of jam nuts
Retorque rod end bolt to 50 in. lbs.
Check rod ends & bolts & retorque bolts to _____
Inspect security of jam nuts & foot pedal stops
Retorque foot pedal bolts to _____

Done 1/28/05

Cyclic

Check for freedom of travel in all positions
Check bolts & rod ends for proper end play
Check jam nuts security
Check bias of control cables
Check security of cyclic stop bolts & jam nuts
Level main shaft – vertical & horizontal
Lateral cyclic is 52 degrees to the swash plate’s 10 degrees
Fore/Aft cyclic is the same

Done 1/28/05

Collective

Check range & freedom of movement
Check rod ends for play
Check security of jam nuts
Check security & condition of collective control spring
Check hand grips for condition
Check range & movement of throttle components
Check bolts & rod end for proper end play
Check security of jam nuts
Check ball end of throttle cable & verify it does not catch inside the throttle cable clevis

Done 1/28/05

Drive Train

Inspect cog belt & pulleys & sprocket
Verify belt tension

Done 1/13/05

Check spring tube for proper tension on idler pulley engagement

With the clutch engaged it has

1 - 3/16  inch of tension

Retension main drive belts

1/2" inch at 10 lbs. pressure

Check security & tension of torque link & it’s components
Inspect torque link mounting area for cracks & play in rod end & check jam nut

Re-Done 2/20/05---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

After we hung our blades on the ship
we had to loosen the tension at the top of the engine so the blades could be backed up.

This gave us a reading of 0.1 aft on our engine alignment which should still be within specs as far as the engine alignment goes

but may not be as far as main engine belt tension goes

Were going to give John a call and see what he says this coming week

2/20/05

Redone once again 3/12/05--------------------------------------------------------------------

We reset the belts once again to 10lbs @7/16 of an inch.
It takes quit a bit of pressure to back the blades up but they do back up so were good to go.  With our spring scale it takes 3lbs before they start to move, steady pull it's 4lbs.

Fuel System

Check routing & security of all hoses
Check all hoses & fittings for leaks
Check pre-filter (part of 25 hour service)-----not done
Check fuel cap vents for proper operation

Done 1/28/05

Fan Drive

Check security & condition of fan drive
Verify & inspect that hub bearing is secure to secondary shaft
With fan belts loose check for side play of fan bearing
Check high temp fan for cracks on blades
Check condition of fan drive belts & alternation belt & retighten them

Belts still don't track correctly but acording to RotorWay they should be ok.

Done 1/26/05

Electrical System

Check battery & clean (replace if necessary)
Inspect FADEC wiring harness for security & corrosion
Remove all fuses in overhead panel & check for corrosion
Disconnect battery & check all toggle switches
Check both ends of battery cables for corrosion
Use dialectic grease on reconnection of battery
Verify lugs on battery are tight on reinstallation
Check starter relay connections for security & corrosion
Check starter relay by disconnecting relay plug to starter solenoid, should have a small clicking action
Check security of all FADEC connectors on engine
Check clearance & security of all wires & check for chaffing

Done 1/28/05

Checked ELT and it's remote for proper operation

Done 1/28/05

Voltage Regulator & Alternator

Check gauges during run up
Check alternator fuses for security & corrosion
Alternator should be at full operating RPM – 13.5 to 15 volts – 16 volts maximum

Done 1/31/05

Engine Starter

Apply a small amount of greese on the starter gear. 

This isn't written in the books anywhere it's just something we learned along the way.  If we don't the starter gear will often hang on the flywheel when we're trying to start the ship up.

Don't get to much greese on it or it or it will sling it everywhere,
wanna know how we know that? lol

Done 2/01/05

Instrumentation

Check

Done 1/31/05

Ground Handling

Check

Done 2/6/05

Ballast Weight

Check all weldments

Done 2/9/05

Rotor Hub Assembly

Loctite 609 thrust washers & tap with mallet to ensure proper seating
Lubricate pitch pins with antiseize before installation using old bearing for guides
Inspect shims – disassemble teeter block assembly from rotor mast & inspect shims, bearings & shaft.

See video at this point for more detail pretty much too much to put down from here until #4

 
a. Need rotor shim kit E49-6330?, good indicator, C clamp & micrometer
b. 24 ft. lbs. on hub bolts
c. Longer set screw goes in first
d. Hub must be on center of the main shaft (.001 T.I.R.)
e. Hub pressure between 8-12 lbs.
Grease teeter blocks (part of 25 hour service)
To check main shaft bearing for end play
f.Loosen bolt on slider ball ring clamp
g. Raise collection to full up position
h. Use screwdriver to spread ring & raise it up as high as it will go
i. After dial indicator securely in position raise helicopter by the mast & if over .025 must replace main bearing #E49-1220
j. Use .050 aluminum shim to set proper position of ring clamp
Grease slider assembly
Inspect upper main shaft bearing
k. Loosen lock screws
l. Loosen slider ball assembly 2 full turns CCW
m. Grease slider assembly under rubber boot w/lithium grease
n. Carbon black weather resistant tie to reinstall boot
o. Tighten collar CW until it stops using finger pressure only
p. Make a reference mark on the collar then back it off ½ inch to a max of ¾ inch
q. If too tight cyclic will want to follow the direction of main rotors
r. If too loose cyclic will be sluggish or slow to respond
s. Use silicone on set screws – not loctite
Inspect swash plate assembly for wear
Check swash plate scissor bushing – 1/16 to 1/8 lateral deflection is normal
If more than 1/8 disassembly & further inspection is required
Check amount for proper amount of lateral between cyclic cable mount, scissors & non-rotating swash plate
Check for cracks in the 90 degree bends of the collective scissor mount bracket
Install the blades & final rigging

We didn't do all this stuff it's just here for reference

Main Rotor Blades

Retorque main bolts to 65-70 ft. lbs

Done 2/19/05

100 hour

Post Construction Check List

Page 1 of 3

Page 1 of 3

100 Hour

Post Construction Check List

Page 2 of 3

With our brass spring pull scale @ 80F,
blades begin to move at 3lbs
steady pull at 4/lbs

Check the tension of the rear tail rotor belt through the hole in the tail boom. Spec:  between tight and loose limits with tool at reference mark

Actual:  10 lbs. on tool with 1-3/8 movement------------------Retensioned again on 2/20/05

Actual:  8 lbs. on tool with 1-3/8 movement-------------------Retensioned again on 3/12/05

Actual:  9 lbs. on tool with 1-3/8 movement-------------------Retensioned again on 3/20/05

Retensioned again Actual:  9 lbs. on tool with 1-3/8 movement-------11 lbs. hot------was 6 lbs. cold---EH 121.8------ 11/13/05

Actual:  8 lbs. on tool with 1-3/8 movement-------------56F degrees---------Checked on 2/25/06

Page 2 of 3

100 Hour

Post Construction Check List

Page 3 of 3

2/10/05

Notes:

After the tail boom installation was finished with the ship sitting on the ground

Center Square drive tube = 2.9
Tail boom angel = 5.6
Horizontal fin = 4.5 - 4.9

Using the Alt 0" setting on the protractor
sitting on the main cog belt sprocket

Sprocket = 0.0
Secondary = 0.0
Engine Flywheel = 0.0

--------------------------------------------------------

Main Belt Tension Redone 3/12/05 because our blades wouldn't back up at 10lbs @ 5/16

Sproket	Engaged Disengaged	0.0 Set with Alt 0
Secondary	Engaged Disengaged	0.0 rear high, 0.1
Engine	Engaged Disengaged	rear low 0.2 rear low 0.1

With our brass spring pull scale @ 80F,

blades begin to move at 3lbs
steady pull at 4/lbs

New Settings

Main Belt Tension Adjusted on 11/13/05 Belts tentsion was 9/16" @ 10 lbs.  and we reset them to 7/16 @ 10lbs. Using the Alt 0" setting on the protractor sitting on the main cog belt sprocket Sprocket = 0.0 Secondary = 0.0 Engine Flywheel = 0.0

Ran Engine for 20 minutes

outside temp = 35 degrees
Secondary Bearing temp = 83 degrees
Water temp = 68.9 to 72.3 celcius
Fadec air temp = 21.1

Weight Loss

Removed an Engine shim
Removed a secondary shim
Down sized some of the fire sleeve
1.20 lbs in all

Page 3 of 3

UPDATE LOG BOOK

Done 3/27/05

END